Wednesday, May 02, 2012

A look at some Citadel Paints

I was using some of my paints today and noticed something very interesting about the new paint range.  Not all of the pots are made equal.

If you look at #6, inside the blue circle is a cap hold upon device that uses friction to hold the cap open.  Its like a little rubber ramp.  Number 7, bought from the same store doesn't have it.  I bought 4 paints just recently and two had them and two didn't.  And it was random, I bought 2 base colors and only one had the ramp.  The layer I bought had one, but the technical primer did not.

Citadel Piants have 2 problems that I'll discuss:

1. A problem that arises with all of these paints is that when shaken up, a fair amount of paint sticks to the lid and then drips.  Where it drips depends on the cap design.  All of these caps are designed with an inner protrusion that is meant to direct the cap paint back into the bottle.  Lets look at them by type:
  1. The inner protrusion fits snugly against the cap, so almost all of the paint drains back into the bottle
  2. The inner opening is narrower than the outside creating a large rim and significant distance between protrusion and pot.  The cap opens to 90 degrees or more and lots of paint can drip onto the rim and be wasted.
  3. The first of the new style of pots, this has a retainer on the back and is tensioned to stay open at less than 90 degrees letting paint drip safely into the pot.
  4. The Citadel washes perform the same as the foundation line did.
  5. The newer citadel color line did without the retainer and the pot lid does not remain open to a useful degree initially but eventually they seem to remain open at a 45 degree angle.  However, there is no excessive paint loss either.
  6. The new layer paint with the rubber ramp allows the user to open the pot to about 90 degress, and most paint will fall back within the pot, otherwise the ramp focres the lid almost closed.
  7. The new base paint without the ramp stays open at about 45 degrees and is acceptable.
2. Another problem is that some of the pots allow the paint to dry out.  Again by type:
  1. No problem with drying out, but you'll get a bit of paint on your thumb every time you open them up.  I bought the starter paint set in 1995 or so used it for a few years then forgot about them.  And then in 2008, I found them in storage and they had not dried out one bit.  I'm still using them today.
  2. The worst for drying out.  without proper re-hydrating, they can harden and become unusable.  I have heard this could be avoided by storing them upside down.  I never tried it though. 
  3. The pots do a fair job on these, but with the high pigment content these can suffer easily from being left open too long.  A few drops of water every so often can keep them in good shape.
  4. I use most of my washes too quickly to make good judgement here, but I have a few lesser used washes that appear to be drying out a bit. 
  5. No clue yet as to how these will do, but they have to be better than the old black topped crystal pots.
  6. These seem to seal much tighter and I expect good things from them.
  7. No clue yet as to how these will do, but they have to be better than the old black topped crystal pots.
So, do you look for the retainer on the new paints when you go shopping? 


  1. Good morning! I have found that when comparing #6 and #7 that the tabbed #6 pots are not good at all. They look like they should be better than #7, but in actuality when closed #6 pots squish paint out from the sides and over time make a big mess. Thank goodness GW seems to be phasing out #6.

    1. I agree, I have been disappointed in them also, but the new pots still frustate me with thier inability to stay open. What was wrong with #3 like on the foundation paints?

  2. 6's are much better. i have both types. 6 has 2011 under it and 7 has 2008 under it. thanks for explaining why 7's always have dried rims of paint. i couldn't figure it out!