Skip to main content

More 3D Prints and a first attempt at a casting


When I came home last night, I was happy to find a box from Shapeways on my doorstep.  I was excited to see how well, another USA based 3D Printing service had done, so I quickly opened the box.  I was very happy with the detail and the price was much cheaper than the previous two “high detail” prints I have received. 



 

The 3 prints I have received have all used a resin that is cured by UV Light.  So perhaps it should not be surprising at all that they are remarkably similar in quality.  I do have some prints incoming made of different (and cheaper) materials and when they arrive, I will give you a comparison between them.   I would like to do a post just on the 3d Printing technologies with links to videos for each type.  Today I’ll just link you to this one which is the type used to make the Sculpteo, Ponoko and Shapeways pylons.

 
 
The resin casting has been a limited success.  It took 5 casts for me to get one of high enough quality that I’m happy with it.  The Alumilite High Strength II mold is holding up well, and is quite flexible compared to the standard silicone mold that comes with the kit.  There are a few flaws in the mold, but it captured the detail quite well. 
I opted for a single mold, but am thinking about trying a two piece mold to reduce the strain on the details, especially the panel indentations, as I remove the casts.  I've found that Isopropyl Alcohol helps as a lubricant and evaporates quickly once the cast has been removed.  The small volume of the pylon makes it more difficult to get the exact ratio, and the fourth cast broke on removal because it was quite brittle.

 
 
Thanks again for dropping by and reading this far.  I welcome your comments and if you have questions, feel free to ask away.
 

Comments

  1. If you are in Canada or the States try this product from Smooth-On:

    http://www.smooth-on.com/Release-Agents-for/c1123_1226/index.html

    Silicone release agents are fantastic. I'm a professional sculptor/caster and its what I use.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, I'll look into it. The fine details in the mold are getting damaged as I pull the bigger top through the narrow neck. I'm going to try a 2 piece mold next.

      Delete
  2. Sorry if you already know this, I'm not sure what your experience level is with casting;

    If you do a two part mold try moving up to a silicone rubber with a higher SHORE hardness (firmness), since you have basically no undercuts to have to worry about (I'm assuming you'll do two sideways pieces) the higher hardness lets you 'clamp' the pieces together (I use rubber bands, 5 or 6, on molds that small) with minimal to no deformation, which drastically reduces the size of your mold-lines.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. THat was supposed to be a reply to your reply, oops.

      Delete
    2. I'm certainly no expert, but I've made enough mistakes to know that I need to do something different. I am going to try to use my CAD file to generate a negative that I can then make into a 2 piece mold and have it 3D printed. If that becomes to difficult, I will likely use the silicone mold rubber that comes with the standard kit by Alumilite. It is significantly stiffer than the high strength II silicone, which is counter-intuitive but makes sense when you think about it for a bit.

      Delete
  3. If you keep having problems feel free to pop me an e-mail at jesse.l.sinclair@gmail.com.

    I've been doing this for years so I don't mind helping if I can. I've cast everything from miniatures to costumes to vehicle parts for mesuem replicas (I once had to cast 5 foot long incendiary bombs for a Lancaster replica at 85% of life scale, that was a nightmare, the molds weighed 25lbs each).

    I'm not sure why you'll need to 3D print negatives to make the 2-part mold?

    Check out this video if you need help; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ1A7ZjTsx8

    The only difference I would do on yours is have the base of the pylons directly against the mold box, that way it doubles as your pour hole.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks for the tips and links.

    I was successful in making a two piece mold, and my first casts were pretty good, although I have to be careful to avoid trapped air.

    In my CAD program, I was able to use the original part remove that material from a block in order to form a mold. Unfortunately, printing the mold was a bit too expensive for me to attempt. Although I was able to reduce the price by half by removing excess material it was still over $100 to make a two piece mold that would allow me to cast 4 pieces at a time.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Building our Ruined Building Part 3

Welcome back,  we are ready to add some battle damage to our perfectly rectangular wall sections and get our ruined building finished up.

My tools used were a cordless drill with a 3/8" (10mm) bit and a pair of diagonal wire cutters.  Before I began, I coated all of the foam in PVA glue and a liberal dusting of sand.  I also coated the upper floors to add some texture.  I also used many pieces of cut up sprue to fill in the gaps where it might not be obvious that models were not supposed to be placed in that spot.  I took some pieces of sprue and used them to brace the upper floors.  Although the for sale sign was good thick plastic, it still flexed enough to concern me.  I used super glue to hold the sprue in place.  In the below view you can see the post added to support both levels.  A wire rope with knots was added for decoration.

You can see how the walls not have jagged edges and there are holes from shells drilled though the walls.  The amount of destruction is really a ma…

A look at some Citadel Paints

I was using some of my paints today and noticed something very interesting about the new paint range.  Not all of the pots are made equal.

If you look at #6, inside the blue circle is a cap hold upon device that uses friction to hold the cap open.  Its like a little rubber ramp.  Number 7, bought from the same store doesn't have it.  I bought 4 paints just recently and two had them and two didn't.  And it was random, I bought 2 base colors and only one had the ramp.  The layer I bought had one, but the technical primer did not.

Citadel Piants have 2 problems that I'll discuss:

1. A problem that arises with all of these paints is that when shaken up, a fair amount of paint sticks to the lid and then drips.  Where it drips depends on the cap design.  All of these caps are designed with an inner protrusion that is meant to direct the cap paint back into the bottle.  Lets look at them by type:
The inner protrusion fits snugly against the cap, so almost all of the paint drains …

A Ruined Manufactorum

It is finished.  Or wrecked?  Maybe completely wrecked?  Anyway, I have put enough details, paint etc on the second mega-terrain tile that it is certainly in playable condition.  Because I'm sure you want to get to the pictures, here they are:

Before:



More after the jump!