Skip to main content

Posts

WIP Dagobian Russ Tank

So, about a year and a half ago, I designed and printed and eventually fielded 3 counts as Leman Russ Tanks.  You can take a look here. I enjoyed the process of making them, but they were so different, my opponents needed constant reminding of what my vehicles were.  I decided that the only way to fix this was not only to redesign the tank, but to ensure it retained essential elements common on Leman Russ Tanks.  Later I decided that it should be an upgrade kit that required a Leman Russ kit.
I really don't like the side sponsons of the actual kit, and also felt the track pattern was odd.  So as you can see in the images below, I've lowered the track line, and mounted the side weapons above the tracks.
Let me know what you think.


The reset bolt head details are missing on the right side.  Bad print. 

I've been thinking about a turret mod, but I'm not sold on it yet.  This one's fit is slightly off, as often happens as I work though these problems. 

I'd have li…
Recent posts

Making a Dagob-4-H Pattern Chimera

This post will show you how to make a Dagob-4-H pattern Chimera from a standard kit and 3D printed parts.  This is an intermediate level conversion, and should not be undertaken without careful consideration.

This is the painted version of the modified Chimera.  It looks unique, but is still recognizable as a Chimera.


Below you can see the painted one and an unpainted version.  Helpfully, the 3D printed parts have been printed in red PLA.


So what do we need?  One full Chimera kit, and 3 printed pieces.  The .stl files can be found here.

Open the kit and remove the following components.  While a razor saw, like the one shown below is not required, the conversion will be much harder without it.  Also, razor saws are very, sharp.  Some might say they are as sharp as a RAZOR.  Please be careful when cutting.



Starting with the rear hull top, we will cut off the two triangles in the rear as shown below.

Once they are removed, the piece will lay flat.  We will now remove the front half.

Beca…

Another Ruined Building Completed

Or should it be "Another Building Completely Ruined"?  90% of this building is from 3D printed panels that I designed and printed at home.  The deeply set windows were designed when I was trying to resin cast the walls, but at the quantities of resin I was using, it was more expensive to cast a wall than it was to print another.
My collection of the Space Marine Heroes, including one from Japan, (Thanks Nick!) and a few easy build Primaris Space Marines volunteered to show off the new building.  And a Raven Guard Dreadnought wandered into the first floor.
My favorite part of this building is the staircases.  I used cavalry bases for the treads and the size is perfect for minis.




Some WIP Images
Raw materials - About .5lb or .25 kg of plastic and 20 hours of printing.
Assembled, but un-ruined.

First layer of paint.
Did you like this building and want to see more? Let me know in the comments.

Battle for Oteck Hivesprawl Sector A1

It was a bloody fight between the (mostly) Black Legion and a Blood Angels Successor Chapter, the Angels Encarmine.  Sector A1 of the Oteck Hivesprawl was deserted, and the armies would soon learn why.
I played an Actual Game!  And I got to use my Realm of Battle Sector Imperialis board.

We played with the Genestealer Infestation rules from the Vigilus campaign book, and let me tell you, them Blood Angels just got madder after fighting though them.

We used a mission from Chapter Approved 2018, with 5 objectives and earning victory points each turn.

It was a good game.






The 3 Player Problem

Imagine you have arrived at your favorite gaming site, only to discover that rather than one opponent, you have two. Let's examine your options and perhaps you can share what you choose to do in these situations.

An Original 3 Player Game



Option 1: Play a 2 v 1 Game. This is a good option, especially if one of the three is less experienced than the other two. One player plays the agreed upon power level or points, and the other two split that amount between them. The split doesn't have to be even, especially if one player has a smaller collection.
Pros: Everyone is playing the same game. The two player team can share ideas and work together.
Cons: The two players have smaller armies and might not be able to play with all the guys they wanted to. Unless it was preplanned, the two player team is unlikely to have a set list ready. The players or armies may not work together well. It can lead to very strange pairings. Tyranids and Necrons vs Space Marines?
Points of Contention: Does the …

Something Stirs in the Warp

In the upcoming year, expect to hear more from me as I talk about the hobby, share some battle reports and show off creations from my 3d printer.
I can hardly believe that it's been a year since my last post.  Since then I had promotions at work, lost the best dog ever after 18 years, survived a flood from a hurricane, started new armies, made new kill teams and I bought an airbrush.
One of my Christmas gifts this year was the bad guys from Blackstone Fortress.  I've played the game, and it was fun, but I didn't see our group ever needing two copies.  The Chaos forces can be used as a patrol detachment and come in at 17 PL and about 327 points.  They all don't have the Heretic Astartes keyword, or <legion> or even Black Legion, so you can't use the Renegade Guard in your normal Chaos Space Marine Battalion.  I expect I'm going to have a good time painting these guys.

Feel free to post in the comments.  Keep it classy.


Building our Ruined Building Part 3

Welcome back,  we are ready to add some battle damage to our perfectly rectangular wall sections and get our ruined building finished up.

My tools used were a cordless drill with a 3/8" (10mm) bit and a pair of diagonal wire cutters.  Before I began, I coated all of the foam in PVA glue and a liberal dusting of sand.  I also coated the upper floors to add some texture.  I also used many pieces of cut up sprue to fill in the gaps where it might not be obvious that models were not supposed to be placed in that spot.  I took some pieces of sprue and used them to brace the upper floors.  Although the for sale sign was good thick plastic, it still flexed enough to concern me.  I used super glue to hold the sprue in place.  In the below view you can see the post added to support both levels.  A wire rope with knots was added for decoration.

You can see how the walls not have jagged edges and there are holes from shells drilled though the walls.  The amount of destruction is really a ma…