Warhammer 40K and Fantasy modeling, conversions, painting and a bit of gaming
Search This Blog
Eldar Pathfinders x 20
That's the score of them and below is a close up of a few.
I used bits of Cities of Death buildings and the 40k basing set from GW for the bases. They are in 4 squads with the same sort of base and the same pose except for each squad has one of the "commanding" pathfinders aiming the shurican pistol. I was hoping to make them look better, but I just got too impatient to get them on the field.
This post will show you how to make a Dagob-4-H pattern Chimera from a standard kit and 3D printed parts. This is an intermediate level conversion, and should not be undertaken without careful consideration.
This is the painted version of the modified Chimera. It looks unique, but is still recognizable as a Chimera.
Below you can see the painted one and an unpainted version. Helpfully, the 3D printed parts have been printed in red PLA.
So what do we need? One full Chimera kit, and 3 printed pieces. The .stl files can be found here.
Open the kit and remove the following components. While a razor saw, like the one shown below is not required, the conversion will be much harder without it. Also, razor saws are very, sharp. Some might say they are as sharp as a RAZOR. Please be careful when cutting.
Starting with the rear hull top, we will cut off the two triangles in the rear as shown below.
Once they are removed, the piece will lay flat. We will now remove the front half.
Welcome back, we are ready to add some battle damage to our perfectly rectangular wall sections and get our ruined building finished up.
My tools used were a cordless drill with a 3/8" (10mm) bit and a pair of diagonal wire cutters. Before I began, I coated all of the foam in PVA glue and a liberal dusting of sand. I also coated the upper floors to add some texture. I also used many pieces of cut up sprue to fill in the gaps where it might not be obvious that models were not supposed to be placed in that spot. I took some pieces of sprue and used them to brace the upper floors. Although the for sale sign was good thick plastic, it still flexed enough to concern me. I used super glue to hold the sprue in place. In the below view you can see the post added to support both levels. A wire rope with knots was added for decoration.
You can see how the walls not have jagged edges and there are holes from shells drilled though the walls. The amount of destruction is really a ma…
I was using some of my paints today and noticed something very interesting about the new paint range. Not all of the pots are made equal.
If you look at #6, inside the blue circle is a cap hold upon device that uses friction to hold the cap open. Its like a little rubber ramp. Number 7, bought from the same store doesn't have it. I bought 4 paints just recently and two had them and two didn't. And it was random, I bought 2 base colors and only one had the ramp. The layer I bought had one, but the technical primer did not.
Citadel Piants have 2 problems that I'll discuss:
1. A problem that arises with all of these paints is that when shaken up, a fair amount of paint sticks to the lid and then drips. Where it drips depends on the cap design. All of these caps are designed with an inner protrusion that is meant to direct the cap paint back into the bottle. Lets look at them by type: The inner protrusion fits snugly against the cap, so almost all of the paint drains …